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I first ripped off a strip 80mm wide, then trimmed it to 690 long. The cross-member is also 730mm, but straight-cut. The main frame has mitred corners - I cut 2 x 790 and 2 x 730 with mitres
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Glasscutter (if not cut to size previously) Router (or alternate - maybe a circular saw and extra effort) Mounting screws for mains switch (and cooling fan if being used) usually come with it Tools Strain relief and mounting screws for cabling Optional 4 small corner brackets with fixing screws Mesh/filter for air intake if using a fan - you can improvise with a 6" square of flyscreen and similar piece of non-woven material - it's not critical. Mine came with a protective wire screen and fixing screws. To be sure it remained cool in use, I also added a cooling fan, but this is optional. Mine was 6mm laminated (for safety)Ī fluorescent tube to fit comfortably inside - I used a twin tube (2 x 20W) 600mm unit I needed 2 x 790mm, 3 x 730mm (well, 2 x 730 and 1 x 690, but the third one was trimmed to provide the retaining bar and hand rest)Ī base panel - I used 6mm plywood, 710mm x 770mmįrosted glass topsheet - choose your thickness according to the area you want - bigger area means you need thicker glass. We had about 4m left over from a job on the house. I used 239x30 (dressed size) oregon fascia board, that already had a nice rebate just near each edge (where the eave lining would normally slot in) to save some work. (I kinda inherited a preference for super-strong from my Dad - trying to learn that sometimes lighter is better :-) ) Timber for framing - I went kinda heavy-duty, so I could later add legs and still have a solid table, but if you will only ever sit this on a regular table, you can save a lot of weight.